The Romance of the Italian Lakes

Guest post by Matthew Teller

Italy’s lakes are a little slice of paradise. Draped like jewels across the foothills of the Alps, they offer a Mediterranean vision of palms and purple bougainvillea, figs and lemon blossom, blue water and even bluer sky. Italian Lakes holidays are all about romance and relaxation: sample the local wine, dine on fresh-caught lake fish, take in the glorious views – and leave the world behind. Here are some of my favourite spots, perfect for bringing out the romantic in anyone.

LAKESIDE ROMANCE

1) Lake Orta: Orta San Giulio’s medieval lanes and tiny piazzas gaze across open water at the theatrical vision of an island convent and church floating just offshore. It’s the most romantic lakes village you could ever hope to find. Dine at Villa Crespi, an Moorish-style folly on the slopes above Orta San Giulio boasting a Michelin-starred restaurant.

2) Lake Maggiore: The grande-dame of Italian lake resorts is Stresa, a destination of high glamour since the days of the Orient Express. Stroll the flower gardens along the lakefront promenade, then take ship for the exotic Baroque gardens of Isola Bella. Dine at Piemontese, a welcoming locals’ hideaway in the old lanes, serving classic Piedmont cuisine in the wood-panelled interior or the terrace garden.

3) Lake Lugano: Whether you’re daytripping from Como or making this lesser-known lake your base, make time for Morcote, a handsome Swiss-Italian village of cobbled alleys and porticoes flanked by high forested slopes. Dine at Osteria Al Böcc, a rustic, family-run inn renowned locally for its food – polenta, fresh-made pasta, risotto and more.

4) Lake Como: A place of legendary beauty, Lake Como takes your breath away with its combination of forest, mountains, watery panoramas and elegant lake resorts. Don’t miss Bellagio, a gorgeous little village on the tip of a mid-lake peninsula – superb atmosphere, fine shopping, perfect relaxation. Dine at Hotel Du Lac, the epitome of lakeside ‘dolce vita’, a historic hotel and fine restaurant directly opposite the ferry landing-stage.

5) Lake Garda: Broad, deep and long, Lake Garda is speckled with winningly attractive little villages to explore. Right at the top of the lake, enclosed by mountains, historic Riva del Garda oozes charm, from its suntrap piazza on the harbourfront promenade to its web of fascinating narrow alleys. Dine at Restel de Fer, a hearty country-style tavern restaurant on the edge of Riva, famous for Italian mountain cuisine of the highest quality.

SECRET LAKES

Wherever you go, it doesn’t take much to slip away from the crowds and find your own quiet corner. On Lake Como, head for Varenna, a picture-perfect village community on the lesser-known eastern shore: stroll the Lovers’ Walkway, then gaze into a sunset to remember. Little Lake Iseo, poised midway between Como and Garda, offers all the charm with none of the hustle. Come for woodland strolls, vineyard excursions and bags of lakes atmosphere. Not far away, tiny Gargnano lies wedged between cliffs and water overlooking Lake Garda, famous for its lemon orchards – and its tranquillity.

MOUNTAIN SIGHS

On any lakes holiday there are plenty of ways to gain some altitude for fresh breezes and panoramic vistas. A cable car whisks you up from Stresa to the summit of the Mottarone, where you can take in glorious views over lakes Maggiore and Orta. Near Lugano, a historic cog-and-pinion rack railway chugs majestically up precipitous slopes to the top of Monte Generoso, for stupendous views above the treeline of the Matterhorn, Milan and everything in between. From Monte Baldo, served by a unique rotating cable car from Malcesine, the whole of Lake Garda lies spread at your feet – perfect for walkers, lovers and dreamers.

AWAY FROM THE CROWDS

Wherever you choose to stay on the Italian Lakes, don’t miss the chance to explore some of Italy’s most romantic cities on your doorstep too. Bergamo is lovely, its walled old quarter adorned with fancy Gothic palaces and majestic churches. Renowned as a foodie’s destination, Bergamo has enough delis and restaurants to keep the most demanding gourmet happy. Brescia is less well-known, a busy working city with superb museums set amid a mix of medieval and modernist architecture. Taking top billing for romantics is Verona, the setting for Shakespeare’s Romeo and Juliet as well as the famous open-air opera festival every summer, but also packed with wonderful restaurants and wine bars.

Matthew Teller is co-author on the Rough Guide to the Italian Lakes

One Response
  1. Chris @ Tenerife South

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